Artists’ Jewelry Projects

  • Art as Jewelry as Art, Link

  • Sculpture to Wear, Link

  • Taffin & Sotheby’s Palm Beach, Link

  • Artists’ Jewellery, Link

Model Brooke Deighton wearing Harry Bertoia Rare Crab-Shaped Brooch, 1943, and Snake Brooch, 1943 © Jordan Doner 2022

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Art as Jewelry as Art

This Sotheby’s auction presented a collection of carefully selected and thoughtfully curated pieces of artists’ jewelry. My aim was to share my passion for artists’ jewelry with discerning collectors and to excite the interest of lovers of all kinds of art in this developing and important genre. The works presented were miniature sculptures. Acquiring one of them allows the buyer to experience an intimate relationship with the piece itself, the artist who created it, as well as a direct connection to the art movement it reflects.

Artists’ jewelry tends to mirror the artistic mode of the day; therefore, the sale was divided into sections loosely defined by some of the significant art movements of the 20th century. An emphasis was placed on prominent artists, though some who are lesser-known were included owing to the excellence of their works. Many are known for works on a large physical scale, but all have been drawn to explore this medium in miniature. In this reduced scale, the contrasts and detailing stand out sharply.

The more I have learned about the artists, their jewelry creations, and their history and philosophy, the more fascinating I find them. I am confident that collectors and other readers of this auction will be equally captivated.

Each work has a very personal connection to the artists who created them. The artists in each section are known for their work in particular mediums. Upon my visit to his studio in Les Fusains in Paris,  Hubert Le Gall entrusted me to include his unique and delicate Alaskan Fisherman with a Jewelry Stand Mirror and Swallow, all of which include obsidian (volcanic glass). He shared the insight that many artists feel that it is more challenging to garner power in the small than they can easily get in the massive.

The works here represented historical moments of creative expression from Calder’s kinetic genius in the 1930s and 1940s to today's visionaries, who are creating with their art what I view as the heirlooms no just of today but of tomorrow. Throughout this auction, you can see how each artist has explored mediums on different scales using diverse materials and combining different techniques.

Visionary artists included, for example, Luz Camino’s unique works consisting of thinly-sliced agate combined with her skill in using the 14th-century plique à jour technique. Tito Pedrino used stones such as aquamarine in bold and powerful ways in his Aquamarine Necklace. Innovative interpretations of the surrounding world are reflected in works like the handmade ‘Atlas’ Jewelry Box by sculptor Luna Benai, while the violinist Yury Revich’s The Expressivity: Shostakovich Eye Jewelry was inspired by the edginess, expressivity, discomfort, and surreal beauty of music composer Dimitri Shostakovich. James de Givenchy is a recognized visionary whose work will be a classic reference for future generations, just as we now look back to early jewelry artists such as Suzanne Belperron, born in 1900, who pioneered a new aesthetic in jewelry.

Louisa Guinness Gallery, London, Sculpture to Wear Photo © Ron Arad

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Sculpture to Wear

Sculpture to Wear was shown in East Hampton from August 3 - 28th, 2019 at Sotheby's Selling Gallery at 66 Newtown Lane.

More than 80 works by artists included Ron Arad, Pol Bury, Alexander Calder, William Copley, Niki de Saint Phalle, Michael Craig-Martin, Max Ernst, Lucio Fontana, Anish Kapoor, Jeff Koons, Claude Lalanne, Mariko Mori, Tim Noble and Sue Webster, Gio Pomodoro, Marc Quinn, Man Ray, Christopher Thompson Royds, Ed Ruscha, Conrad Shawcross, Cora Sheibani, Yinka Shonibare CBE, Jesus Rafael Soto, Gavin Turk, William Turnbull, Rob Wynne, and Sophia Vari.

The project was a collaboration between Louisa Guinness Gallery, London, and Tiffany Dubin of Sotheby's, New York, who added, “It is an honor to partner with Louisa Guinness on this selling exhibition. Louisa is a pioneer in artist jewelry, having established it as a field in its own right, begin­ning with her 2003 London landmark exhibition Past and Present: Jewelry by 20th Centu­ry Artists.

Collecting pieces by 20th-century masters and collaborating with contemporary artists, Louisa recognized that artists, especially sculptors, understood three dimensions and had a special facility for designing wearable pieces. They bring a fresh approach to materi­als and techniques while creating more intimate and often very different versions of their signature artworks.”

These works challenged and expanded traditional ways of wearing and seeing jewelry. The collectors who choose these pieces had a thoughtful relationship to the objects they acquired and developed a real personal appreci­ation when they wore them.

Taffin & Sotheby's Photo

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Taffin & Sotheby’s
Palm Beach

By:  Christine Schott

Rarely do the better-known hosts and hostesses in Palm Beach take notice as they did this week when James de Givenchy arrived at Sotheby’s with his stunningly beautiful and unique Taffin Jewelry Collection. Just a few key telephone calls from Tiffany Dubin and there were lunches, dinners and shopping galore!

New York-based Taffin by James de Givenchy has become recognized globally over the past 23 years for its one-of-a-kind high-jewelry designs that embrace “the unusual.” Inspired by the work of storied French and American jewelry houses, Givenchy’s contemporary designs reflect his appreciation for quality craftsmanship.

Beginning on Wednesday, ladies including Eleanora Kennedy, Karen Klopp and Polly Onet stopped by Sotheby’s to greet Givenchy and view the collection. The new Whispering Angel 2020 was served chilled on the back terrace overlooking the Intracoastal.

Note

James de Givenchy, Taffin, is one of the greatest jewelers of our time and there is no one like him. Tiffany Dubin brought to Sotheby’s Palm Beach a contemporary jeweler with a have fresh perspective and a new approach for incorporating unexpected materials.  An artist jeweler who is hands-on from concept to realization.

Sotheby's S|2 Artists' Jewellery by Louisa Guinness Gallery Selling Exhibition

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Artists’ Jewellery

By Louisa Guinness Gallery for S|2

Sothebys was delighted to partner with the leading dealer in Artist Jewelry Louisa Guinness, for a selling exhibition that showcased jewelry by three renowned contemporary artists: Anish Kapoor, Claude, Lalanne, and Sophia Vari. This was Ms Guinness’s, first New York exhibition of Artist Jewelry. Prices ranged from $5000 to $65,000.